From our November/December Issue
I was just starting to see the numbers on my wristwatch when Aidan made the call. “It’s shooting light,” he said in a steady, low whisper. Not a minute later, a silhouetted cloud of teal swooped over our blind, the decoys, and a flock of live birds that had beat the buzzer and landed early.
Aidan cracked off the first shot, which sent the birds on the water flying. The sky in front of me was now full of teal. I did my best to pick one, and I rolled it to the water with my first shot. My second shot missed, and when I reflexively pulled the trigger a third time, I was quickly reminded that I was holding a 100-year-old side-by-side.
It takes a minute to get used to shooting classic guns, especially in a duck blind where most of us are used to modern semi-autos and pumps. Older guns had idiosyncrasies beyond just two chances at a duck. You may need to shoot gentler shells with a vintage gun or take extra care of it on rainy days. You also might find the stock dimensions antiquated, as shotgunners years ago shot differently than we do today.
But even when you compare a vintage gun’s drawbacks to the advantages of a modern autoloader, the experience of shooting an older gun is still rewarding. In the same way shifting gears on a classic car compares to taking the family van for a drive, vintage shotguns add a richness to any waterfowl hunt. You may need to think about your gun a bit more, but if you’re into shotguns, that’s part of the fun.
WHY HUNT WITH A CLASSIC?
Hunting with a classic gun is less practical than shooting a modern gun, but when you think about it, duck hunting isn’t really practical in the first place. Most of us don’t need to hunt ducks to feed our families or depend on duck hunting to make a living. It’s more about what we get out of a day on the marsh—and for some of us, shooting a classic gun is part of that.
Older guns were also made with a higher level of craft than most newer guns. Skilled labor was cheap back in the day, and to buy a modern gun built to the same standards of hand-fitting and finishing would cost serious money today. For me, shooting ducks with a classic is a way to experience and handle a finely made gun as much as it is about nostalgia and aesthetics.
There are other reasons to hunt with a classic. You may have a family gun with sentimental value that you thought was no longer useful, but a box of bismuth shells can change that. Affordable classics like an older Remington Wingmaster or an Ithaca Model 37 make great backup guns in case your modern duck duster has an issue or a friend comes to shoot with you for the day. Whatever the reasons, many vintage waterfowl guns are still capable of spending a day or a season in the marsh as long as you treat them right.
SOME CLASSIC FOWLERS
Before getting into the nitty-gritty of owning an older duck gun, let’s get into some smoothbores of note. Guns like the Winchester Model 12 bring images of a time many of us have only heard stories of—when rivers, streams and estuaries were choked with so many birds that market gunners needed extra firepower just to keep up. There are also classic American doubles from makers like Parker Bros., A.H. Fox and L.C. Smith as well as strong British wildfowling guns out of Birmingham.
In the early to mid-20th Century, these guns made up the spectrum of fowling pieces from the utilitarian to the extra fancy. They were the Super Black Eagles, Maxuses and A300s of their time. Most were built to withstand the same rain and much we experience today, and they remain just as functional.
Pumps tend to be the most affordable additions to a vintage-duck-gun battery. Many can be had for less than $1,000—though some, like the Winchester model 12 Heavy Duck, command higher prices. Look for models like the standard Model 12, Ithaca Model 37, Remington Model 31 or even an early Remington 870 Wingmaster.
Classic duck hunting autoloaders include humpbacks like the Browning A5, Remington Model 11 and Savage 720—all of which are pretty much the same gun, with a Belgian-made Browning being the best example. There is also the Remington Model 11-48, which is easy to find and rugged enough for the toughest waterfowling conditions.
Many hunters long to shoot ducks with double guns, and the options can be dizzying. Stock dimensions are key here, with many older American guns having excessive drop. Of course, the guns are still shootable, and a Parker Trojan or VH makes a fine duck gun, as does a Winchester Model 21 or the exceedingly rare A.H. Fox Super Fox of “Bo Whoop” fame. British boxlocks from Birmingham makers like William Ford, Webley & Scott and George Gibbs are more forgiving in terms of shootability. They’re also rugged and simpler to maintain. Look for a double with a little heft to it. This helps with shootability and recoil, and since you seldom need to carry your duck gun great distances, it doesn’t need to be light. Longer barrels of 30 to 32 inches help, too, as they give you weight up front, making the gun easier to swing on passing birds.
If you’re looking for an over/under, the Browning Superposed is it. These guns were built sturdy, with the 12-gauge versions being a bit on the heavy side—just perfect for duck hunting. Better yet, 12-gauges are usually cheaper than sub-gauge Superposeds.
With any of the guns mentioned, you’ll get the best performance from a 16-, 12- or 10-gauge—with 12 being the best choice, as you’ll find more options for ammunition. There are larger, big-bore fowling pieces, mostly from the UK, but anything larger than a 10-gauge is illegal to hunt ducks with in the US. You can hunt with a vintage 20-gauge, but you’re really not gaining much. Any weight advantages felt in the uplands don’t really translate to the duck blind, and vintage loads for 12s tend to keep recoil manageable anyway. You also should stay away from fancy engraving and pretty wood, as this lets you focus on the ducks and not your shotgun when it starts pouring rain and the mud is over your knees. Plainer guns are usually a little easier on your wallet too.
EVALUATING OLDER SHOTGUNS
An important distinction when talking about any classic shotgun is the difference between collectible guns and “shooters.” Collectors prize guns in good original condition. They usually don’t take these guns duck hunting, because the guns lose value if they get damaged or worn. By their nature, collectible guns are always more expensive than shooters, and you can usually tell what you’re looking at based on the price tag. For duck hunting, choosing a less-collectible gun is the way to go. These guns either exist in greater numbers or have been refinished at some point, thereby diminishing their collectible value.
When I see an older duck gun for sale, I first evaluate its overall condition. Guns with badly worn bluing, rust or cracked stocks are easy to leave behind, as they will have a hard time withstanding the rigors of duck hunting. Guns that are finished too well for their price and age have most likely been refinished. They make good shooters, but you should inquire about the story behind them and be wary of things like wall thickness (more on this below). You’ll likely find vintage duck guns choked Full, and this is OK if you shoot bismuth and avoid steel shot larger than No. 2 in steel-rated guns. Opening chokes closer to modified will give you better patterns in the decoys, and a gunsmith can do this for you. If there is enough meat in the barrel(s), you can even install screw-in chokes. I’ve been hunting with a vintage Parker choked Modified & Modified. I shoot bismuth and keep my shots close.
Vintage pumps and autoloaders are generally easy to evaluate on your own, but it helps to consult a reputable dealer or gunsmith when looking at older doubles. Side-by-sides and over/unders can have different issues that are more difficult to spot with the naked eye. Charles Schneible of British Sporting Arms, in Millbrook, New York, has seen thousands of vintage shotguns and knows a few things to look for.
“Wall thickness of the barrels is the first and biggest thing to look at,” Schneible said. A shotgun barrel may look shiny and new, but that could be because it has been polished. The more polishing, the less metal remains and the thinner the barrel gets. Wall-thickness requirements differ, depending on where you measure on the barrel, but to be able to shoot the gun, Schneible recommends a minimum thickness of .025" to .026", and he suggests having an expert measure this for you if you don’t have the tools or experience.
“After wall thickness,” Schneible said, “I like to check if the gun is on face, meaning the action still mates and locks up well with the barrel. I’ll also check the chokes, measure the length of the chamber with a chamber gauge, and look over the barrel for proof marks.”
Chamber length can be an issue in older guns, as some were cut for 2 1⁄2 shells. “If you’re going to hunt with a gun that has a short chamber,” Schneible said, “limit yourself to teal and wood ducks at closer ranges.” Two-and-three-quarter-inch chambers will give you plenty of power for ducks and geese in the decoys. And if there is enough metal in the barrels, you can have short chambers lengthened.
Major disqualifying factors for a classic would be if the barrels are too thin or have a bulge. You should also never hunt with guns that have mechanical issues like faulty safeties or triggers or missing pieces. Always test an older gun in a safe environment before taking it into the field, and if you’re in doubt about anything, take it to a knowledgeable gunsmith for a once-over before pulling the trigger. Many of these issues can be repaired, but it will cost money—sometimes more than the gun is worth.
After you’ve figured out that the gun is sound and will shoot, the most important thing to evaluate is whether you can shoot it well. Always mount a shotgun a few times in the shop to see how it fits with your body. With the gun mounted, you should either be looking down the barrel or slightly over it. I also like a duck gun to have a bit of weight up front to help when swinging on birds flying overhead.
If you work with a good gun dealer and a gunsmith, you should be able to weed out any vintage guns that aren’t worth your time. And if your dealer can’t answer questions about things like chamber length, choke size and wall thickness, move on or bring in a gunsmith who can.
HOW TO RUN A VINTAGE SMOOTHBORE
Just as you wouldn’t put cheap gas in a vintage Corvette, shell selection is very important for vintage duck guns. Older shotguns were meant to shoot lead shot, and we can’t do that anymore for waterfowl. Bismuth is one answer, and it performs well in vintage guns. Steel can be harmful to some makes and models of older shotguns but not all. Check with a gunsmith before shooting steel loads through your vintage duck gun, and keep shot sizes smaller than No. 2 in guns with Full chokes. You can also use tungsten, but Schneible suggests selecting only softer tungsten made specifically for older guns.
Load size and velocity are other important considerations. Many duck hunters are used to higher-velocity shells, but a bismuth load running between 1,100 and 1,200 fps will not only kill ducks but also pattern well. Opt for a 1-to 1 1⁄8-oz payload of No. 3, 4 or 5 bismuth, and you’ll have all you need in the marsh.
Once you sort out your shells, you may need to deal with stock dimensions—specifically excessive drop—though I’ve found many vintage guns that fit me perfectly. With cheaper guns, it would be a mistake to have new stocks made or an adjustable cheek riser installed, as this often costs more than the gun (and in the case of the riser would be sacrilegious). Instead, Schneible suggests mounting some kind of removable comb to bring your eye in line with the barrels. Removable buttpads are also a good, cheap way to extend length of pull. You could have the gun fit for a new recoil pad, which would be a little sleeker. Just remember to save the original pad or plate should you ever want to sell the gun.
Finally, you need to pay closer attention to your vintage fowler than you would a Beretta covered in Cerekote. I try to keep my guns away from salt water, and I always break them down to dry off and oil after hunting in the rain. Store older guns outside their cases and away from excessive humidity, and consider storing them muzzle down on a soft surface, to keep oil from creeping into the wood. Take good care of your vintage shotgun, and it will probably last another 100 years in the duck blind.
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