Cold Hard Facts

From our January/February 2026 Issue

If you like snow, ice and extremely cold weather, go to Alaska. If you want expert Alaskan advice on cold-weather care and optimizing performance for your sporting dogs, stay where you are and look no further than Arleigh Reynolds, DVM, Ph.D., dACVIM Nutrition, and Associate Dean Emeritus at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, where he founded the school’s veterinary medicine program. Dr. Reynolds is also a world-champion sled-dog sprint racer who recently retired from Nestlé Purina PetCare after 24 years studying and working with elite canine athletes at his facility in Salcha, Alaska.

Dr. Reynolds has seen his share of Alaska snow and ice—often at -20ºF while traveling 20 mph on a sled pulled by his beloved team of dogs.

“From November through February you really need to protect your dogs from the cold,” Dr. Reynolds said. “It doesn’t matter if you’re mushing in Alaska or hunting pheasants in the Dakotas, the combination of low temps, high humidity and wind can put your dogs at risk for hypothermia, frostbite and injuries to feet and pads.

Dr. Reynolds recommends long-term preparation to help dogs perform in the cold coupled with short-term protective gear to help keep dogs in the hunt.

“Long-term’ means conditioning, good nutrition, proper hydration and good body condition,” Dr. Reynolds said, “because the fitter the dog is, the easier that dog will handle any kind of stress or change in the weather or temperature. Short-term preparation means protective gear. We use boots, jackets, vests, even dog-snood earmuffs to protect the ears from frostbite.”

According to Dr. Reynolds, today’s canine athletes are bred and trained to such a high level of drive, enthusiasm and talent that “they’ll try to run right through adverse conditions. It’s our job to protect them.” If your hard-charging bird dog stops hunting, tucks tail, comes up lame or starts shivering, it’s time to stop, assess the situation and take action.

“The goal should always be to try to prevent cold-weather issues and injuries from happening in the first place,” he said. “Prevention is always easier than treating those issues.”

Following are some of Dr. Reynolds’ tips and “musher maxims” for helping “winterize” your sporting dog.

HYDRATION MATTERS

Proper hydration in cold weather is critical and often overlooked.

“Respiratory water losses can be two to three times urinary water loss in freezing temperatures,” Dr. Reynolds said. “When the temperature gets into single digits, every breath your dog inhales has basically zero humidity and every exhale is basically 100 percent saturated with water. That’s why you see that rim of ice forming around the nose and mouth. That’s real water loss, and if a dog gets even a little bit dehydrated, its ability to thermoregulate really decreases.”

To help stay ahead of the hydration challenge, Dr. Reynolds suggests carrying a small thermos or hydro flask of warm water along with some kibble and a collapsible cup. Another strategy is carrying war, “baited” water. Dr. Reynolds mixes a couple of tablespoons of canned cat food with warm water and says his dogs love it.

“It may sound weird,” he said “but canned cat food is super palatable, and dogs will often drink baited water before plain water. Experiment to find a flavor your dog likes. And if a dog is cold or shivering, drinking something warm will help raise the body temperature from the inside out.”

IF THE BOOT FITS, WEAR IT

The feet and pads are often the first to go when hunting in cold, snowy conditions.

“You need to be proactive and check your dog frequently,” Dr. Reynolds said. “Is snow or ice starting to ball up between the toes? Are the nail beds red or inflamed? Are there splits starting between the webs? If so, it’s time to boot your dog.”

Dr. Reynolds prefers Kevlar boots and carries a couple pair for each dog. “When you boot a dog,” he said, “make sure it fits well. Try boots in training before you need them. Check the tops of the boots to make sure snow isn’t accumulating. Check frequently to make sure there are no holes in the boots. And whenever you run dogs in boots, be sure to trim the nails first or Dremel them down so they’re not sharp. I can get 100 miles out of a boot over multiple days when nails are trimmed and the boot fits properly.”

Even with boots, feet can often be tender and inflamed with splits in the pads and between webbing. “Always carry ointment,” Dr. Reynolds said. “I make my own, and it’s easy. I use a half-cup of zinc oxide [diaper-rash ointment] as the base and add one tablespoon of aloe vera, one tablespoon of lanolin and one teaspoon of Neosporin. You can buy straight zinc oxide online as well as tubes of pure lanolin.”

This mix can be used as a preventative or applied to areas that are tender and inflamed. “I apply the ointment twice a day—morning and evening—to the nailbeds, between the toes and webs, and to any areas that are red or irritated,” he said. “The Neosporin helps the splits from getting infected. And you can use this ointment for frostbite.”

COLD, CALORIES AND BODY CONDITION (THE ART OF FEEDING)

Studies show a dog needs about 7 percent more calories for every 10 degrees the temperature drops below the moderate temps of spring and fall. That means a sporting dog fed three cups of high-fat, high-protein dog food when temps are between 40ºF and 60ºF might need four cups (or more) to maintain ideal weight and body condition when hunting in cold winter weather.

“That ratio and rule of thumb for calories and temperature are pretty good,” Dr. Reynolds said, “but remember that all dogs are individuals and caloric needs can vary significantly from dog to dog. I’ve had sled dogs that weighed exactly the same but one ate twice as much as the other. Feeding really is an art. Caloric needs increase because of the increased need for exercise and the increased need for staying warm. We like lean dogs, but not too lean or too thin when it’s cold—especially if you’re hunting or exercising multiple days in a row.”

Dr. Reynolds recommends putting your hands on the dog to assess ideal body condition. “Ideally you want to feel that last rib—not an inch of fat over the rib,” he said. “Feed dogs according to how they’re responding. If they’re working hard and starting to get a little thin, feed them more. If they’re gaining weight, feed less. If you do hunt multiple days, increase the amount of food and consider feeding a handful of kibble periodically during the hunt. While I’m certainly an advocate of once-a-day feeding, it’s OK to feed a small meal in the evening to help maintain weight and energy when it’s cold outside.”

BE PREPARED FOR SUDDEN CHANGES IN WINTER WEATHER

What begins as a cold, crisp, sunny day can quickly turn dangerous.

“We hunt ptarmigan up in the mountains here in Alaska,” Dr. Reynolds said. “We start in the timber, and even though it’s cold, it’s comfortable and enjoyable for us and the dogs. But when we get above treeline—where the ptarmigan tend to be—it can be really windy, and suddenly it’s bitter cold and you really need that protective gear for the dogs.”

Dr. Reynolds carries boots, jackets and a space blanket along with that thermos of warm water—just in case. “Those items can be life savers,” he said. “You may start the day not needing them, but you’d better have them when you do need them. That combination of wind, high humidity and freezing temperatures can really put a dog at risk for hypothermia and frostbite.”

Dr. Reynolds says certain areas on a dog are more prone to frostbite. “Pay attention to tips of ears, the fold of ears for dogs with long ears, and certainly the underbelly—nipples and vulva on a female and scrotum and prepuce on the male,” he said. “You’re looking for redness and areas that become hard to the touch. Severe frostbite turns black. If you suspect severe frostbite, see your veterinarian. If it’s just ‘frost nip” be sure to cover up that area and apply ointment, because that area is going to be even more susceptible to frostbite the next time you go out.”

OLD DOGS, COLD DOGS AND WATER DOGS

“Senior dogs are the best,” Dr. Reynolds said. “They’re generally incredibly well trained and wonderful to be with. Dogs become more susceptible to the cold as they age and tend to get stiff a little easier. I like to give them some anti-inflammatories in the evening or just after the hunt, just to help them sleep better and take away some of that stiffness.”

Dr. Reynolds says keeping senior dogs warm is important, whether it’s warming them up before a bout of exercise or simply providing a warm place to spend the night. “Make sure that dog isn’t sleeping in a cold dog box—shivering and getting even more stiff.”

Retrievers require additional attention in cold temperatures. “We have streams here in Alaska that hold ducks into December, and the ambient temperature can be below zero. When a dog makes a retrieve in those temperatures, neoprene vests are a great idea; and it’s important to have a towel or chamois to dry the dog off. We also use heaters in the blind or boat to help keep dogs and humans warm.”

DON’T BE AFRAID TO MAKE A COLD CALL

“It’s our responsibility to protect these amazing canine athletes as they do what they’re bred to do,” Dr. Reynolds said. “Remember to try everything in training before you use it in the field. Be prepared for changes during the day. And even with proper preparation and gear, it might just be too cold. It might be time to say, ‘We’re done,’ or today is not the right day. I’ve had to make that call as a musher and as a hunter with sporting dogs. And I’ve been glad I did.”